WHAT TO LOOK FOR

I have been purchasing and restoring vintage record players found on eBay, at flea markets, antique stores and other locations for over 20 years. With that said, I thought I would offer my observations about the different types of record players for sale out there that might be of interest to both sellers (who purchase the items for selling on eBay) and for buyers, and add a few points about what to look for when considering a record player purchase. I will be discussing models manufactured from the 1950s through the 1980s and not the earlier wind-up or electric phonographs popular in the 1920s and into the 1930s (e.g., early RCA or Columbia Victrola types). Also, the information contained in this guide focuses on those buyers who simply want to purchase a record player or turntable that works in an effort to revisit those memories of playing albums and 45s after a long day at school, etc. This is not a guide for those truly serious audiophiles – like myself – who might purchase units solely for parts and rely on friends who can recap tube amps and replace transistors in solid state units.

Terminology
To begin with, terminology is important when searching for a record player. eBay has done a great job in categorizing record players and turntables by differentiating between the two, and by specifying Vintage Electronics as a broad category that contains various vintage electronics components – including record players. For the purpose of this guide, discussion will be limited to those record players found when searching for Vintage Record Player or Portable Record Player - or by manufacturer (e.g., Vintage Zenith Stereo, Vintage Magnavox, Webcor Record Player, etc.). However, in both categories, some sellers will include new "Retro" units that have been manufactured recently (e.g., new Crosley units). Also, this guide will be limited to a discussion of self-contained vintage models and not separate component turntables, amps, speakers, or radio tuners/receivers.

Record Player – Personally, I consider a record player to be a self-contained item. That is, the item contains the turntable, the amplifier/preamp and the speakers all in one unit, which can be a large console unit or a smaller tabletop unit. Many vintage models also contained AM or AM/FM radio tuners as well, and some early home theater systems included a television so that all home entertainment was contained in one large unit. Some really popular models that began to emerge in the early 1960's and through the 1970's were what I refer to as "pull down" units. Essentially, the units were considered portable - with carrying handles - and the turntable section of the unit pulled down for play. Although still considered self-contained, these units often came with speakers hinged to the cabinet, but they could be removed from the hinges and separated from the unit for placing the speakers apart in any room for better experience of stereophonic sound. Once playing was completed, the unit could then be closed up and remained more compact until the next record-playing session.

Idler Driven – Unfortunately, regarding models manufactured in the 1950's through the 1970s, many a good record player has been trashed because of a slipping idler wheel in the turntable. A rubber idler wheel was used in these models and was the primary part that turned the platter on the turntable. Today, there are a number of online companies that will completely "re-tire" an old idler wheel with new rubber for a reasonable cost ($30-$40). For many of these models, the idler wheel rubber either became hard and defective or oil got onto the rubber, which caused the idler to slip when pinched between the turntable motor shaft and the underside edge of the turntable platter. On several occasions, I have "taken a chance" on a seller's record player when he or she describes the unit as "sound coming out of all speakers when a finger is brushed across the needle, but the turntable doesn't turn." In other words, I've taken a chance that the primary problem with the record player's turntable was a bad idler wheel; that is an easy fix. However, there are a number of problems that can adversely affect a turntable other than the idler wheel – especially in models where you can stack a number of records. These are referred to as fully automatic turntables because records can be stacked (78, 33, or 45), played through, at the end of the record, the tone arm (the part that houses the needle) rejects from the record that has just played allowing the next to drop down onto the platter and play. After the last record plays, the unit automatically shuts off. For these models, 50’s through the late 60’s (and into the 70’s), the use of rubber belts was limited to separate, often higher end turntables manufactured by companies such as Pioneer, Sansui, Bang and Olufson and others. That said, if a seller indicates “probably needs a new belt” for these earlier models, the problem would be a bad idler wheel instead of a bad belt.

Record Player Amplifiers – Tube Models: Word of Warning – If you are a novice buyer and the seller is afraid to plug the unit into a wall socket, you'll probably want to approach the same with caution. Many of the older 50's and early 60's tube amplifier models were manufactured with paper or wax capacitors and resistors. In addition, I have received many older models where the main power cord cover had become dry and brittle, causing bare wire to be exposed. You’ll definitely need to use caution in such instances. When this has happened to me, I have replaced the main power cord before even plugging in the unit. One of my great purchases – I thought – was a 1961 tube model radio with auxiliary plugs in the back for a small vintage turntable that I had purchased earlier. When I turned the radio on, the sound was excellent; a warm, rich tube sound with great low tones. After about two hours of play, the unit literally burst into flames. A friend that recaps tube amps showed me the old capacitors that had ignited. The old wood casing was dry and I literally had to put the fire out with an extinguisher.

Record Player Amplifiers – Transistor/Solid State: In my experience, I have found that the newer the record player (late 60's to early 80's), the more intact the record player amp. By intact, I mean that the sound is still rich whether monophonic (smaller or children’s units) or stereophonic. If stereo, an equal balance of sound is reproduced in both the right and left channels (as heard through the speakers) and the bass and treble response is good when the knobs (or single Tone knob) are adjusted. The biggest problem that I have experienced with vintage solid state transistor record player amplifiers is that the left or right channel is weak. However, in a few instances, the amplifier was actually fine, but the needle (stylus) phono cartridge was old and defective. Along with needles, phono cartridges for most of these units are sold by a number of eBay sellers at a reasonable cost.

NOTE: Depending on your country of origin, be aware of electrical current specifications. After years of searching for the exact model of a small record player I had been given for Christmas in 1968, I finally found it on eBay from a seller in Australia. Living in the U.S., I purchased the model and it works great. However, I had to purchase an electric current converter with adaptor plugs to play it.

Vintage Record Player Phono Cartridges – There are basically three types of phono cartridges; ceramic, crystal and magnetic. With minimal exceptions, older vintage record player models used either ceramic or crystal cartridges – not magnetic. The amplifiers in these older units will not accommodate magnetic cartridges. There are a number of great sellers on eBay who sell “tested” cartridges that are new old stock (NOS). That said, you will need to seek out a seller who tests his or her cartridges before selling. Otherwise, you might receive a “dead” cartridge that looks new but produces either minimal or no sound because of drying out over the years. Further, if you had a separate component turntable during the 70’s or 80’s with a magnetic cartridge that placed minimal weight (about 2 grams) on the record, the earlier ceramic cartridges need more weight for playing (some as high as 6 grams of weight).

Buying Tips: In this section, I have provided some tips on what to look for when purchasing a self-contained record player and also some questions to ask sellers.

One of the main things that I look at when searching for record players from the 50's through the 70's is the appearance from available pictures. A little dust is fine, but if the rubber pad on the turntable platter is warped or missing or the unit case is falling apart or the tolex covering is peeling off, chances are, the unit has been stored in a crawl space, attic, outside shed, etc., which indicates to me that there will probably be an amplifier problem – whether tube or transistor. Keep in mind that these vintage units were made to be played and some have been stored away for 40 years or more. The turntable oil and grease on these units can also turn into a glue-like substance that will need to be thoroughly removed with electronics solvent and then re-lubed at the appropriate lube points. The above basic servicing applies to probably all vintage units that you might purchase. I do this basic cleaning service on all models I purchase in order for all of the turntable parts to move smoothly during the record player change cycles.

Other than purchasing a new phono cartridge or needle, if you want to purchase a record player that actually plays with minimal repair, below are a few questions to ask the seller.
1. Does the turntable platter turn at the correct speeds? If not, it could be a bad idler wheel or a bad motor, including a broken or bent motor shaft. Hardened grease on the spindle washers could also cause the platter to drag. These are easy fixes except for a burned out motor.
2. If fully automatic, does the tone arm do what it's supposed to do when the changer goes through its cycle to change a record of any size and reject/shut off after a record is played? If not, it could be a bad idler, bad motor, hardened grease or other issues with the changer mechanism. The fix can range from easy to much more difficult.
3. When you plug the unit into a wall socket and turn it on, do you hear sound coming out of the speakers when you rub a finger across the needle (or the cartridge if there is no needle; or when – if – you play a record)? If not, there could be a problem with the amp, the phono cartridge or other issues. If the problem is with the amp, there is no easy fix. Unless you have the expertise to test/repair amplifier parts or can find someone who still works on vintage electronics, the fix can be difficult, expensive or unavailable. Before finding a friend who works on vintage tube amps, I paid around $350 to have the tube amp restored on a large console model that my father purchased in 1958.
4. If stereo, is there an equal, balanced amount of sound coming from both channels (speakers) when the balance knob is turned to the middle setting? If not, there could be a problem with the amp, phono cartridge or other issues such as damaged or rotted speaker cones. Again, if the amp is the problem, not an easy fix.

Finally, decide what you are willing to pay for a record player. Because I have expertise in repairing turntables, I tend to pay at the lower end of the scale. In fact, in the years that a friend and I have purchased vintage units (about 100), neither of us have paid in excess of $120 for any untested or unrestored unit – large console models with televisions included - and many of these have been recent purchases. However, if a seller's description indicates that he or she has restored a unit, to me, the worth of the item is increased. Example: A newly re-tired idler wheel ($35+); a new cartridge ($25+); a new needle ($15+/-); replaced caps/resistors (varies); and a substantial amount of labor (?). That said, the seller might have put a minimum of around $100 in the cleaning and restoration of the unit and, logically, wants a return profit on his or her restoration expenditures. Also, there are some models out there that were either novelty, truly rare or really popular models (e.g., GE Wildcat, RCA Forma Collection, Bubble or Dome Top units) that will always go for moderately high amounts; not because the sound is incredible but because of the design or popularity. Restoration by the seller might include the following:
1. Cleaned and removed all old grease and oil and re-lubricated all lube points.
2. Restored the idler wheel with all new rubber or successfully cleaned the idler with rubber revitalizer.
3. Replaced all old amp capacitors and resistors if needed (usually for tube amps).
4. Cleaned or replaced volume, tone, treble, bass and balance pots to eliminate static when the unit is in play.
5. Checked speakers for cracks, breaks or deterioration and replaced or repaired if needed.
6. Replaced the phono cartridge and replaced the needle/stylus.

Non-Restored Models – In my experience, I have found the following turntable models to be easily cleaned with cartridges and needles, for the most part, still easily obtainable by eBay sellers at a reasonable cost: Magnavox Micromatic (early to late 60’s); BSR (late 60’s into 70’s); Voice of Music (mid 50’s through late 60’s, which includes Zenith, Motorola and other manufacturers); GE (60’s and into the 70’s – including standard turntables, as in GE Wildcats and Swingmates, and Tonal 1); Panasonic (usually the mini-turntables from the late 60’s to early 70’s); later RCA models (60s); and Garrard (60’s and into the 70’s). Keep in mind that beginning in the 70’s, many manufacturers began using a basic BSR fully automatic turntable in their record player units. The mechanics of these BSR turntables are simple and idler driven, and parts are easily removed for cleaning. Basic cleaning/servicing procedures can be found online (including demonstrations on YouTube).

For some final thoughts, use common sense when purchasing a record player. If a seller has not restored or tested a basic vintage unit, indicates a list of what is wrong with the player and is still asking a car or month's rent in purchase price, you'll want to consider how much more money you'll need to put into the player before making the purchase. I've seen some auctions with basic untested and unrestored record players going for Buy It Now prices of $200, $400, $600, $800 and even into the thousands of dollars. Absurd is the word that comes to mind. For those prices, you should demand a lifetime guarantee and not a Sold As Is status. OR, better yet, just keep on looking. There are numerous eBay sellers out there who have a good grasp of reality when selling record players and might even sell fully restored models for $150 or $250. I also look at a seller's past sales to see if said seller has a history of selling vintage record players or electronics. If so, I might pay a little more simply because the description indicates that the seller knows what he or she is talking about and offers up the item for a fair, realistic price. That said, there are some truly remarkable sellers out there who have totally restored everything on some vintage units (including re-painting turntable bases and exposed parts, re-detailing the cabinets, completely restoring and rebuilding tube or solid state amps, etc.) and added even more character making them incredible units (both looks and sound) that will last for decades without need of repair. The prices are high, but a ton of expensive work and true creativity has gone into the restoration process. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to purchase them - but that doesn't mean that I don't want to - even at the high prices. Additionally, some sellers will state that "These are going for over $400 or $500 on eBay." Well - for the sellers listing them, I hope so. However, it has been my experience that they are not "going" for such extravagant amounts; they're simply being listed for such prices. I've followed some units that are way over-priced continue to be relisted for a year or more or simply put in a perpetual But It Now status with no sale. I also avoid sellers who indicate that they have physical stores and include a disclaimer about how they reserve the right to end an auction or not honor a sale if the item sells in their store before ending the auction. I don't like to be cynical, but I have had one experience where I won a bidding auction (not Buy It Now) from a seller who gave me a refund stating that the item had sold in his store - after I paid for the item. About a month and a half later, I saw the same unit listed by the same seller at a Buy It Now price about $80 more than what I had won it for. Again, I don't like to be cynical, but I felt as though the seller didn't get what he wanted for the item and, therefore, waited a few weeks to relist thinking I would never see it. In fairness, of course, if it had sold at his physical store, there is that chance that the buyer returned it and, thus, it was relisted. For this tip - and all others in this guide - use your own informed judgment.

For novice sellers purchasing basic record players to sell on eBay, be wary of those original sellers at flea markets etc. who indicate that "you could probably get $500 or $600 for this for resale on eBay." All I can say about that is, "Good Luck!" The first question to ask would be, "What about this record player would be worth, say, $400 to a buyer? Would I pay this much myself?" In my experience, those purchasing vintage record players fall into three main categories: true audiophiles who are either purchasing to own or for resale after restoration; college students who think owning an old record player would be cool (and it IS cool); and those looking for units like, or similar to, ones they grew up with. Breaking it down, true audiophiles know what vintage record players are worth and will not pay an outrageous amount for a basic unit. Personally, I won't pay more than $50 for a "stacker" turntable that needs repairs (I usually get them for a about $20) and no more than $75 for a complete record player in need of repair. My willing purchase price goes up depending on restoration specifics, but, even then, not more than $200 - $250; and I want at least a 90-day warranty. For those units that are dead and sold "for parts only," $15 - $20 max - whether separate turntable or complete unit. I usually totally disregard sellers who completely disassemble record player parts and sell all the parts separately (unless the turntable or amp is needed). Otherwise, the wiring of the units is usually cut and unless I find someone who can figure out where the wires go (e.g., amp, sound controls, etc.), the unit has been reduced to total junk. Regarding college students, most are simply just trying to make ends meet (I used to work at a college) and simply don't have the extra expendables to pay even a moderate amount for a record player. Tuition, books and food (along with some partying funds) usually come first. Regarding those looking for units that they grew up with, I've found when trying to sell some of my restored units for a reasonable cost, unless I bring the price way down (drastically narrowing my profit based on parts I purchased for the restoration), they consider their initial want a passing thought if the price is too high. I have spoken to some potential buyers who are looking for a particular style of record player (e.g., large mid-century console from the 50's or early 60's in near mint condition) who will pay a little more, but not an extravagant amount. Keep in mind that there are thousands of record players out there sold at flea markets, on eBay, on Craig's list, etc. Don't get fooled by an initial seller that refers to a record player as RARE. The basic ones are not rare by any means. They're everywhere. If you list a basic model, unrestored and/or untested, for, say, $250, chances are the same or similar model will be listed by another seller for much less (say, $69).

Also, if record player amps emit a loud hum – even when the volume is turned down – chances are, the amp is bad, or at the very least, the caps and/or tubes need to be replaced, which can be costly. Further, remember that the needle, or stylus, has nothing to do with the mechanical performance of a record player. If a description states that "the player does not work when turned on; probably just needs a new needle," a new needle will definitely not fix a mechanical changer or electrical problem. Lastly, if a seller indicates that a record player “Works Great,” remember to refer to the above about exactly what “works” means to the seller. Just because a record player powers up when turned on or a power light comes on, that does not mean that the record player works as it was intended to do by amplifying sound when playing a record. However, in most cases, that by no means indicates that the seller is trying to pull a fast one or be deceptive; it simply means that the seller does not specialize in selling record players with a lot of knowledge of the technical workings of such units. In my experience of purchasing probably upwards of 100 record players over the years, I have only had one or two problems. In one instance about 10 years ago, a seller indicated that the unit “Worked Well.” When I got the unit, it was totally dead. When I wrote the seller, he or she wrote back stating, “I meant that based on the design, the wood cabinet containing the record player worked well with any furniture décor style.” Get clarification! Also remember that, generally speaking, a basic record player is not **RARE** so that should not be a consideration when looking at the purchase price for a basic unit.

One last thing. Whether you find that same record player model you got for graduation in 1968, purchase that long sought after GE Wildcat that your best friend had in 1970, want to relive the memories of sitting in front of an old large Magnavox TV/ record player console model that your family had in the living room growing up, you might remember in your youth the sound being much better than what you hear with your new vintage purchase. Of course, there might be some amp issues, but – for the most part – the reason does not lie in the unit itself or by any fault of the seller. Like it or not, as we age, our ears lose that youthful ability to hear the same range of sound decibels – especially if we abandoned speakers years ago in favor of closed-ear headsets with our favorite artists’ music directly pounding our eardrums throughout the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s. Such is life.

Keep your vinyl alive, revisit those happy memories, and happy eBay record player hunting!